Labrador Puppy Guide Part 2

HOW TO TOILET TRAIN YOUR PUPPY OR DOG

Begin to house train your puppy or dog the day you bring him home. Before you start, choose a word to use as a command for relieving himself. It doesn't matter which word, but bear in mind that you may have to say it in public! "Be clean" is polite enough for most company, or use "hurry up" if you want to be more subtle.

Be patient and expect him to make mistakes. If you don't want to find them everywhere, fit baby gates to limit his movements to a small part of the house at first. As with all dog training, you should use reward based methods that concentrate on the right behaviour rather than punishment based ones which only look at mistakes.

· Your puppy will probably need to relieve himself after a meal, after a sleep and after (or during) a game. Watch him and learn the body language which means he needs to go out - he may sniff the floor, seem distracted, or wander about looking for a spot. This can be subtle, and often doesn't give you more than a couple of seconds warning: stay alert.

· At these times take him straight outside and (most importantly) stay out with him. When he naturally starts to wee, chant your chosen command in an encouraging tone. When he has finished praise him as much as you can. Let him know what a clever dog he is - lots of hugs, love, tickles, even food if you like.

· Don't try to use your word as a command at first, wait until you are sure your dog has made the connection between the word and the deed. Then you can take him out and say "hurry up" (or whatever) to encourage him. This is a very useful trick, especially if you are leaving him at home for a short time or taking him on a long car journey.

· If you see your puppy weeing indoors say loudly, but not shouting "NO" as suddenly as possible. Aim to startle him rather than scold, so that all the muscles in his body tighten and he stops mid-stream. Get him outside as fast as possible and wait with him till he finishes so you can praise him when he has done. This may take a while so don't give up too soon.

· If you don't catch your dog in the act, clean up accidents without comment. This is difficult when it's your carpet yet again, but don't shout, smack, rub his nose in it, or point to the spot and snarl; he will not know why you are angry.

· Your puppy or dog knows you ARE angry (this is why he acts as if he is feeling guilty) but he connects your anger with what he is doing now, not what he did an hour (or even five minutes) ago. By forcing a connection between your anger and faeces or urine you may teach him to hide, or even eat, his mess to keep it out of your way. He will certainly not be keen to "perform" in front of you when you take him in the garden.

· These routines also apply if your puppy or dog is wet or dirty overnight. Telling him off when he comes to greet you can make him confused, stressed and more likely to make a mess. Greet him, let him out, and clear up without comment.

· Disinfectant leaves a tangy, urine-like (to a dog) smell; use biological soap powder to clean your floor. Better still, your pet shop will have cleaning preparations which are designed to break down the chemicals in urine so you don't get any lingering aromas. These are particularly useful if he develops a 'favourite' indoor spot, since smell is one of the things which keeps him coming back to it. A plastic sheet or opened up carrier bag spread under the carpet at his favourite spot will stop the urine soaking into or staining your floorboards.

· If the weather allows, leave the door open at first. If your puppy or dog goes out by himself watch him; then follow him out and praise him (outside) immediately he finishes. If you can't leave the door open, take him out whenever he makes a move towards the door. Do it immediately, even if he picks the most exciting moment in your favourite TV show. As before watch, follow, and praise.

· When you are confident his training is complete, you can begin to (very) gradually reduce the amount of praise you give, and then to let him go out alone.

1. House training can be a doddle or a struggle. Most pups will try to be clean, so take him to his spot after his meal, a game or a sleep, or when he moves towards the door. Be observant; you will soon learn when pup "feels the need" - certain actions, certain times of day etc. Take him outside (don't send him on his own at first, you need to be there to praise him after he performs). Avoid getting cross over mistakes, and NEVER rub his nose in it.

2. Teach your dog to empty his bladder or bowel on command by gently repeating key words like "be clean" (or "hurry up" if you want to be more subtle!) as he does so naturally, praising him when he has finished. He will soon associate the word with the action - once he does you can make sure he uses the garden before you go out and avoid him fouling public areas or needing a "pit stop" on the motor way.

3. Even if your dog has used your garden you should always carry a poop scoop or plastic bag just in case, and USE IT! Local bylaws are in effect in most places and they apply to YOU and YOUR DOG. Whether bylaws are there or not, it's the responsible thing to do.

4. Elementary obedience starts on the day you bring your pup home. ALWAYS USE FUN NOT FORCE, and persuade the kids that tricks come after basic training. Your dog needs to know his name, "no", "come", and "sit" and later "down", "stay", and "heel". A few place words can be useful too - "in the car", "on your bed". To stop him getting confused, keep your commands simple and make sure everyone in the family uses the same words in the same way. Keep training sessions short, teach one thing at a time and use plenty of rewards - toys, titbits or praise. If you don't know how, go to a dog training club which will teach both of you.

5. Never allow your pet to become a nuisance. Not everyone loves dogs - some could regard your pet as an "affliction" not with "affection"! You know he's being friendly, but other people may be afraid of his "bouncing". You go out in your dog walking clothes, but others may not want footprints on their best jacket. If in doubt, keep him on a lead.

6. Make sure your dog has a collar with an ID disc attached. Not only is this common sense but it is also required by law.

7. Road safety with a dog is essential. Teach yourself (yet again), your children and your dog the Green Cross Code. Your dog should automatically stop whenever he reaches a kerb and not move on until you give permission.

8. Form habits that will last a lifetime by getting him used to being handled and brushed while he is still young. Grooming should always include a check of ears, eyes, teeth, gums, claws and skin as well as fur. You may also wish to clean his teeth with a soft toothbrush and water or proprietary (dog) toothpaste. Know his body and what is normal for him. Look for signs of injuries or infections, and for foreign bodies (moving or otherwise!) As well as keeping you aware of potential problems, this helps your dog to be relaxed and unafraid during veterinary examinations.

9. Keep your dog fit not fat! A growing puppy needs plenty of food but once he is adult he no longer needs the calories that were being used for growth and he may need to eat less. Neutering may also alter his metabolism and call for a further reduction of food. Remember that the amounts on the dog food packet are just a guide - experiment a little with the amount until you find what suits your dog.

10. Be careful about what your dog eats and be just as watchful as to what comes out the other end. Check that your dog does not have an upset stomach due to the family's left-over casserole or a "bug" needing veterinary treatment.

11. Take your puppy to the vet for a check up and to arrange worming and vaccination programmes as soon as possible after bringing him home. Follow this up by remembering his yearly booster injections and - most important - remember to worm him at least twice a year.

WHY DO DOGS RUN AWAY?
If you look at this problem from the dogs' point of view running away is very rewarding - games with other dogs, a nice game of chase with you and lots of exercise! Coming back to you is just the opposite as he is instantly in trouble.
Even when he hasn't run away, you are probably like many other dog owners - you let him 'do his own thing' while he is off lead, and only call him back to you when you want to avoid something, or when it's time to put the lead on and go home. This doesn't encourage him to want to come back to you either, since it means fun time is over.
So what's the answer?

Make coming to you more rewarding than running off.

Sounds simple, doesn't it?

HOW SHOULD YOU CALL YOUR DOG?

By "recall" or "recall command" we mean a word or a whistle, whichever you prefer to use. Don't just use his name as this gets his attention but doesn't tell him what to do.
Try to make your command sound the same every time, as many dogs listen to your tone rather than the word you use. (If you don't believe this, say any old word - like "box" - to your dog next time you want him to sit. If you say it in the same way you usually say "sit", most dogs will sit.) A desperate scream of "oh no, you bad dog, get back here" is not the same command as the calm and encouraging "Ben, come" you use at the training club. It is also important that all members of the family call your dog in the same way, so hold a family meeting and make sure you do.

STAGE ONE - THE BASICS OF TEACHING YOUR DOG TO COME

· Your dog will not come when he is out, if he doesn't come at home. Start there, where you have no traffic or other dogs to worry about if he ignores you.

· Walk him only on the lead for a while. If he pulls, a head collar will give you more control. (Ask your pet shop.)

· Put some hard titbits in a small plastic box or bottle, so you can rattle them. Keep them in your pocket around the house, and three or four (random) times a day, rattle the pot. Call the dog to you at the same time, and give him lots of praise and a titbit when he arrives. Get everyone in the family to do the same. (The dog may look at you as if you're mad at first, especially if you wake him up, but stick to it! That rattling sound will soon mean food.)

· Do this when you are in the same room at first, then try from another room so he has to come and find you. Make sure it's a fun game with lots of love and praise when he does.

· Don't give him any food at any time (titbits or meals) unless he has responded to a recall command first. Always recall him to have his lead put on, to be groomed or patted or anything else nice. Give lots of praise and a titbit when he comes. (All this starts him thinking that coming when called is a good thing.)

· Always take him out when he's hungry, preferably just before a meal, as this makes the titbits more tempting. Take plenty of titbits with you in your usual pot. (Cut his meals down to allow for this - we don't want the blame if he gets overweight! It doesn't matter if he gets, say, a third of his daily food like this at first; you can taper it off later.)

Play the calling game when you're out - even though he's on a lead. Call him every few hundred yards, praise him, feed him, play with him - make a big game of it. Do this on the street as well as where you normally let him off lead. (This should make him start keeping one eye on you all the time.)

MAKING HIM WORK HARDER

• As he learns the game and responds every time, feed him only for progressively quicker responses. If you have to leap up and down or call several times, praise him quietly for coming but that's all. He should soon respond very quickly.
  Don't go to the next stage until he comes INSTANTLY, EVERY TIME at home or out on a lead.

STAGE TWO - TEACHING YOUR DOG TO COME BACK WHEN HE IS OFF THE LEAD

• At first only let him off the lead when you can't see any other dogs, joggers or whatever tempts him to run away.
• Stick to the same rules - call him back for a game and a titbit every few hundred yards, reward quick responses. If you normally only call him when another dog comes along, he may look for one when you first call, but when he sees nothing is there he will come.
• Sometimes when you call him, put him on the lead for a few yards, sit him, reward him and let him off again. (You are showing him that even coming back to put his lead on is not the end of his fun.)
• If another dog does come along, call him in exactly the same way you normally do, reward him, put him on the lead, and try to keep his attention by offering titbits or talking to him. Make silly noises if you have to, but keep his attention on you.
• If he pulls towards the other dog tell him to sit as it goes past. Keep his eyes on you (and a titbit) until it's gone, give him the food and lots of praise, then let him off for another run. Do this every time, if only for a minute, even if you were just about to go home when the other dog arrived.
• If he does run away, DON'T TELL HIM OFF. You have put in a lot of work to make coming back to you a positive experience and you don't want to waste it. Do anything to get his attention - call him and rattle your food, bounce a ball, offer to throw a stick, run the other way, lay on the floor and hide your face, make funny noises (buzzing often does the trick). Don't worry about what other people think - they may have been there!
• Try not to chase your dog. If circumstances like a busy road mean you have to rugby tackle him to the ground, put him on the lead without a word. (Don't praise or scold him.)
• If he does actually come, but at the very last minute, praise him gently.
• If he comes back voluntarily, go mad with enthusiastic praise.
• If he runs away more than once or starts to slip in his responses go back a stage IMMEDIATELY. Don't let him get in the habit of making mistakes.

STAGE THREE - MAKING SURE YOUR DOG ALWAYS COMES BACK

• Once y o ur dog is responding to you every time you call, gradually cut back on the titbits, though you should always give them occasionally to keep him keen. It works like a slot machine - he comes back just in case this time pays!
• If his recall starts to slow, increase the frequency of titbits every time for a while. You should, of course, ALWAYS praise your dog with kind words and a pat for coming back; NEVER take his obedience for granted.
• Every time you go for an "off lead" walk, remember to put him on the lead for a few paces, then let him off again. You can reduce it to once per walk once he is under control, but don't do it at the same place every time.

PROBLEMS

My dog doesn't like titbits
If the attraction of titbits doesn't last, or your dog isn't motivated at all by food, experiment to see what reward he does like. A squeaky toy or bouncy ball often gets his attention and a quick game with it can become part of your praise. Vary the reward if nothing works consistently, so it's always worth him coming to check.

This method seems like very hard work
It can be. In addition, although some dogs respond quickly, others take longer. However, it is hardest work at the beginning and it generally works very well. In the long term, it is easier than living with a dog which runs away.

I've given this a fair trial but it doesn't seem to help
No dog training method works 100% with every dog, and there are always other ways to tackle any problem. Some dogs that will not return to you will go down on command so you can collect them, others are helped by using a running line or two leads (you unclip one, he thinks he's free, you still have a line to encourage him back to you).

Your dog, common sense and the law

2. Early experience is rarely wasted. Even if you usually travel in a car, take him on a bus and a train. Shopping gets him used to crowds. Practise sitting him quietly in shops which admit him. Don't abandon him outside the others - get the shopping on another trip.

3. In the UK , the Control of Dogs Order 1992 requires that your name and address must be inscribed on or attached to your dog's collar when he is in a public place, even if he is also tattooed or micro-chipped. This is a sensible precaution wherever you live.

4. The owner of any dog which causes damage or injury (e.g. biting or causing an accident by running onto the road) may have to pay compensation. Your household insurance might cover this (check before you need it!), or you can probably take out canine third party insurance.

5. In the UK , the Dangerous Dogs Act 1990 makes it an offence for any kind of dog to be "dangerously out of control" in a public place. This applies if someone thinks your dog "may cause injury" as well as if he actually does so; you can be prosecuted even if no injuries are caused.

6. Check in advance if dogs are allowed when going somewhere new.

7. Make sure you know and obey the local bylaws. Even where bylaws are not in force you should not allow your pet to foul in public places. Carry a "poop scoop" or plastic bag and clear up after your dog.

Out with your dog on foot

9. Extending leads are ideal for walking on open areas where it's not safe to let your dog run totally free. They're not suitable in crowds unless you want to tie up the locals!! Use them shortened and on "lock" on the pavement too - if your dog is frightened or startled a long lead allows him to run onto the road before you can stop him.

10. If your dog goes for a pull instead of a walk, try a training class.

11. A head collar or anti-pull harness may help you to control your dog more easily than a traditional collar round the neck. If this sounds right for you, get advice from a training club or Canine Advice Life Line (Choose "CALL" below for more details).

Your dog and running free

13. Parks may be the only place in town to let your dog run free, but try to avoid children's play areas and sports fields.

14. The country can be fun for your dog but keep him on a lead in farming areas. It's obvious not to let him chase animals, but running through growing crops can also do expensive damage.

Out with your dog on public transport

16. Expect to pay half fare in most places.

Your dog and the car

18. Before you set off, check that your car breakdown/"get you home" policy includes the dog.

19. DOGS LEFT IN CARS, EVEN FOR VERY SHORT PERIODS, DO DIE. You know how hot your car feels when you get in, even on quite a mild day - your dog is trapped in that heat when you leave him. Ideally you shouldn't leave him alone in your car at all. If you must do so in an emergency, make sure it is well ventilated. Parking in the shade is not enough - shade moves when the sun does, so use a window "grid ventilator" (available from most pet shops). Even better, use two or more and create a through draft.

20. Don't let your dog travel with his head out of the window - he may get grit in his eyes or even jump out! If you want fresh air "grid ventilators" can be used in the windows when travelling along too.

21. In an accident your dog will be thrown about inside the car. He may hurt himself, or land on and injure you or your passengers. In estate cars your dog should travel in the back, behind a dog gate or in a wire crate. In saloons consider fitting a dog "seat belt" harness, or sit him in the front seat well, between your passenger's feet.

22. Your dog should always wear his collar and name tag in the car - he may get out and run off, especially if there is an accident.

23. Don't let your dog leap out of the car as soon as you open the door. Teach him to wait until his lead is on and you tell him it's OK to come.

With many thanks to KayC for writing part 2 of the puppy guide.