Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:06 am Post subject: Puppy Search
When trying to locate a puppy I would suggest going to a Dog Show as well, you will be able to meet a lot of people who are like minded in that they love Labdradors.
Firstly you should decide whether you'd like a Show dog or a Working dog; whilst both are labs they are quite different in their characteristics. A working lab will be generally much slimmer and will want as much as 2-3 hours walking a day, whilst a show lab will be more content with 45 mins - 1 hour.
The higher the pedigree the more you are going to pay for your pup so if you have no intention of showing your dog - beautiful as they may be - you may just wish to get one without endless amounts of Sh Ch or FTC next to the names in their pedigree.
Always ask to see the parents of the dog, and check their temperament, with labs you want big, dopey, playful and inquisative. Check their teeth too if they are all wonky it may give you some idea as to the remainder of the bone structure. Ask to see certificates of health for the parents - you can also find a health check results finder on the Kennel Club website.
Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:15 am Post subject: Re: Puppy Search
Nige94 wrote:
The higher the pedigree the more you are going to pay for your pup so if you have no intention of showing your dog - beautiful as they may be - you may just wish to get one without endless amounts of Sh Ch or FTC next to the names in their pedigree.
Not sure where this idea came from - but it is predominantly incorrect - puppy prices are NOT set by the amount of red in a pedigree - if you look around at a few litters, you will often find, for some unknown reason, that the reverse is actually true.
Nige94 wrote:
Always ask to see the parents of the dog, and check their temperament, with labs you want big, dopey, playful and inquisative. Check their teeth too if they are all wonky it may give you some idea as to the remainder of the bone structure. Ask to see certificates of health for the parents - you can also find a health check results finder on the Kennel Club website.
It is HIGHLY unusual to be able to see both parents of the litter - usually, you will only see mum, as often, stud dogs can be from many miles away (and increasingly overseas).
As above - the health checker tool comes with a strong health-warning - because not all test results are automatically captured - for overseas dogs, there may not be any health results on there at all, but neither of these mean the parents haven't been health-tested.
The best idea is to understand what tests are required so you know the right questions to ask.
Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:24 am Post subject: Puppy Search
Having read what Sue51 has written I re-read, Sue is spot on, I know it has become increasingly popular to use stud dogs from over seas but if you can see him the thats an added bonus, it's all about getting as much info on your puppy as possible.
The price of pups can vary enormously - take a look at Champdogs website, whilst not as comprehensive as the Kennel Club's it will give you an idea as to the difference in price pups can go for.
Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:29 am Post subject: Re: Puppy Search
sue51 wrote:
The best idea is to understand what tests are required so you know the right questions to ask.
This to me is the most important thing, ask lots of questions and know what you are looking for - as the both dogs could be health tested with poor results - if you dont know what you are hoping to look for in the parents results then to a certain extent those results are simply bits of paper.
For example -
The BVA Eye test - must be IN-DATE and must show as UNAFFECTED
The Hip Score ideally must be within the breed average (currently at 14) however it is not as straight forward as knowing the overall score but to know if the hips are balanced. eg a score of 5:5 is a good score but if it were 0:10 (still giving a total score of 10) then I "personally" would be unhappy with how high the score if it is all based on one hip)
The DNA tests - you really need to understand what the results mean particularly if you have intentions of breeding yourself. these results are shown as CLEAR, CARRIER or AFFECTED. (someone more eloquent than myself will probably explain this further IF you want to know more about the DNA tests)
Another place to look for pups is The Labrador Retriever club - they keep lists from their members.
Also - couldnt agree more regarding Jules post about temperament. This is very important. (with my dogs you couldnt get more chilled out but a lab that I have walked today is completly bonkers and if Im honest - hardwork to be around).
Good luck
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I would just like to add that a lab from working lines is not just simply one that is slimmer and needs 2-3 hrs walking
I have a lab from working lines who is equally happy to have a whole day walking as she is to have a 45 minute stroll. She would chase a tennis ball all day but would also sleep all day too!! I have met show type labs who are far more full on than her.
Thank you all so much fir your great replies - plenty of food for thought. Your advice as been invaluable to us, have started to look through the kennel club puppy section and also the breeders-thought we had loads of time but as you all say we need to be looking now. I had no idea about DNA?? That was a new one to us but as hubby is not sure if he'd like one litter then it's another added bonus.
Just one other massive decision to make colour!
I'm getting so excited, we've such a long way to go yet!!!
Thank you everyone
Zoe xx
My Yellow Lab was meant to be Black. My older Brown Poodle was meant to be a Chocolate Lab. My Lurcher was meant to be a Dalmatian. My Collie cross was meant to be a box of Cat Biscuits .
I've come to the conclusion, it's the dog INSIDE that counts, not what packaging it comes in.
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Not sure where this idea came from - but it is predominantly incorrect - puppy prices are NOT set by the amount of red in a pedigree - if you look around at a few litters, you will often find, for some unknown reason, that the reverse is actually true.
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