Please feel free to add anymore comments regards using and teaching with a whistle.
As I keep stressing, be consistent. Consider you are starting again from the beginning so you are teaching a command in exactly the same manner as you would any other new trick.
Try to NEVER give the command if you dont think it will be successful and are not in a position to enforce it if needed. Obviously safety comes first, and if your dog is running towards the main road then you MUST try. But in many cases it is not that urgent so you can get yourself into the right position first.
Never loose your temper! Thats never going to help, but it does no harm at all to really let your dog know that you are not happy WHILE IT IS STILL DOING THE WRONG THING! but the instant it starts to do the right thing, lighten up and be free with the praise. Remember, the bigger difference between your voice, from doing the right thing and doing the wrong thing the easier for your dog to understand right from wrong. Voice is so important even though the command has been given by whistle! I've said it before, "A command is not a discussion point!"
I use both Clicker and Whistle, although not together (no need). One doesn't counteract the other or anything like that, so there is no need to worry.
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If my dog does not obey me straight away my voice changes in an instant to a really cross voice as I inform it in Anglo Saxon to "Get back 'ear before I separate you from your breath!" The instant it stops and gives me the "WOW! I've really annoyed Johnsey now!" look I change back to the happy recall command.
I do exactly the same, whether it's with dogs, horses or kids . Most things seem to understand best, if vocally we are very "Good Cop/Bad Cop". To be honest, I'm not bothered if anyone hears my Fish Wife impersonation, as long as it gets the results I'm after.
I had never used a Whistle before puppy walking my first Guide Dog. My Mojo, who was 2 then, picked up on the 3 pips Whistle command very quickly, even though it wasn't her I was training, but the pup .
I teach it slightly differently to John though, as I link the 3 pips to food (although you could equally link it to anything the dog loves). I start by blowing 3 pips as I release them to eat their dinner, then I use it around the house as they are coming towards me and they get a reward when they get to me. So a bit like priming the clicker, I sort of Prime the Whistle (3 pips = Go straight to Mum and get a treat).
I gradually use it outside, starting with the dog already coming towards me, then without distraction, then with....building it up slowly and like John said, not setting the dog up to fail if at all possible. I do still carry treats, although they don't get one every time they recall. I like to keep 'em guessing. I could probably do away with the treats if I just had Mojo and Pickle, as they will do anything to please, but as I have the two "If there's nothing in it for ME, then I Ain't doing it" Poodles as well (bless 'em ), I prefer to have something tempting in my dog bag.
Obviously you wouldn't want to do it this way if you are thinking of doing any Gundog Work with your dog, as it's likely to spit the dummy/bird, ready for it's treat, however I've found it works really well with pet dogs, even non Labrador ones .
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. Most things seem to understand best, if vocally we are very "Good Cop/Bad Cop". To be honest, I'm not bothered if anyone hears my Fish Wife impersonation, as long as it gets the results I'm after. 
