Blypark  Offline
lead trained
Joined: Jul 30, 2006
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Posts: 2483
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26419 LabPounds
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No.of Labs: 2
Lab Names: Breeze - gone but not forgotten ,Merlin (here for training for owner) Domino and Scrabble the hairy mutt
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Location: Suffolk
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 Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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I put a low board across the doorway to start 'over' and it gets higher as dog gets bigger. I use it to stop on whistle before and after and 'back'.
To send out - 'get out' means go and hunt as I haven't the foggiest idea where anything is and you have to earn your crust to find'.
That means dog/s will clear off and quarter the ground.
Dogs name only for a marked retrieve and for a definate blind, I use arm to send the dog off and 'back'.
Paul Thorpe grew a hedge in a huge square and had a fenced area in a huge square. He used it for 'through' hedge 'over' fence and used the straight edges to train left and right and backs. The inside of the square for a picking up session.
Brilliant idea if you can and have the room.
Young John Halsted had a very, very long jumping lane that keeps the dog in a straight line and it had sides at jumping height so that you can send so far and redirect left or right out of jumping lane.
'Get in' is for a clump of cover, as well as water.
I also teach my dogs to hunt forward. Does anyone else?
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MattA99  Offline
puppy walker
Joined: Jun 25, 2007
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Posts: 937
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17418 LabPounds
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No.of Labs: 4
Lab Names: Hannah, Penny, Blue, Lola
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:16 am Post subject: |
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Interesting thread which i'm sure may be making some people's head spin! 
I try and keep things simple. I like my dogs to have a good long straight outrun and to hopefully clear any fences or ditches that get in the way without further command.
I tend to use the 'back' command, but if I'm honest I dont think it makes a whole heap of difference! If the dog is confident in taking a line, confident in clearing fences, and confident of finding retrieves the other side of fences, then they'll usually go straight over whatever command you choose to use.
By the same token if their confidence hasn't been built up, or they don't fancy taking on the obstacle then they're likely to need additional commands on the way to the retrieve. What will really lose marks is the dog that gets to the obstacle and then needs repeated commands to encourage them over.
Having a dog that will fly over whatever gets in the way without thinking can have its disadvantages (in addition to the safety aspect). Lola in particular is a real 'point and shoot' merchant. Great if the retrieve is the other side of the fence, but can be a pain in the arse if the retrieve is laying somewhere on the near side (just as likely on a real shooting day or field trial)
I think the key is to try and keep things simple and focus on how you want your dog to perform in the shooting field, and what gets the game picked effectively rather than losing too much sleep over what a nit-picking working test judge may not like. A dog that picks its retrieves quickly and cleanly (whether or not it needs the odd additional command) will consistently do well.
From a competitive point of view I think its worth trying to set your training up so that in a test or trial the tasks will ideally be well within the development of the dog. If you are pushing it to the limit of its experience you are likely to need lots of (fairly desperate sounding!) commands. So for example if you think you'll need to do 50 yard blinds then the dog would ideally be comfortable performing blinds well in excess of 50 yards, as well as happy to do much shorter ones.
Matt
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Blypark Offline
lead trained
Joined: Jul 30, 2006
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Posts: 2483
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26419 LabPounds
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No.of Labs: 2
Lab Names: Breeze - gone but not forgotten ,Merlin (here for training for owner) Domino and Scrabble the hairy mutt
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Location: Suffolk
Gender:
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Items
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 5:39 am Post subject: |
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Matt
I laughed at your 'point and shoot' analogy. I use that and people look at me as though I have lost my marbles.
Not everyone is lucky enough to have a 'point and shoot' dog.
I used to 'point and shoot', then stand back, hands in pockets and chat to judge, to pretend I was completely confident that dog would just get out there and do the job.
Now we know as a judge you are in favour of the 'point and shoot type'.
Believe me, there are some who favour - 'too slow to catch a bus and have to keep being reminded in what direction to go'
You are at this moment in time being added to my little book with info from another thread**** and being point and shoot man!
Sherry
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Blypark Offline
lead trained
Joined: Jul 30, 2006
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Posts: 2483
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26419 LabPounds
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No.of Labs: 2
Lab Names: Breeze - gone but not forgotten ,Merlin (here for training for owner) Domino and Scrabble the hairy mutt
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Location: Suffolk
Gender:
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Items
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 5:50 am Post subject: |
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Just as an extra bit about wire. When I competed, I refused to let my dogs near barbed wire. I would have lead on and go home, very politely of course. But any competition is not worth risking my dog for.
Picking up is different,you tend to know the ground like the back of your hand anyway.
In this part of the country, they don't seem to have heard about barbed wire anyway! I do, however alway carry some wire cutters, training or picking up.
Sherry
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