Hi, I am picking up my puppy on Feb 22nd and although i've trained a dog from a pup successfully before, that was 12 years ago so i was fascinated by your article and learned an awful lot. You have mentioned that you may be writing a part 2. If you have published it could you let me know where because the style of your training etc is exactly how i think things should be done to be pack leader and to have a happy and balanced dog. Thank you.
Gregg (+Amber from the 22nd yippee!!!!)
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 11:42 pm Post subject: Thank you!
This is really helpful! I have a 7 month old puppy and she is driving me nuts. I have had dogs before but they have been almost fully trained when I got them. So, again thank you! I've already started putting your advice to work!
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for your wonderful post. My partner and I brought home our 8 week old chocolate lab a week ago and so we've found your information really useful (I've just read it today). Our pup is settling in fine and he already understands sit, come, leave, and no (just about, with the right tone of voice and the occasional treat reward!) I'm going to try your leave it/take it trick though to try and get him responding more consistently as the most noticeable thing at the moment is that he seems to be very over-excited the more confident he gets in his environment and so doesn't always respond when he's in hyper mode. Do you have any advice for this or is it normal for them to be extremely energetic at this stage?
I have two other questions for you or anyone reading this:
1. I noticed you said no stairs. We have only 3 stairs leading down the communal hallway to the front door where we take him out to wee. We carried him to start with but now he's a little bigger and knows he can manage to go up them, he climbs them before I can stop him. Is this ok if he's managing them physically or does he know no better and should be stopped? When is it ok for him to take the stairs? (I know there are only 3 but it's good to know!)
2. He's fairly well toilet trained in that he does most of his business outside. We put him in his crate at night and last night he went 7 hours before he woke us up barking and we took him out. The problem is that during the day when he's not in his crate he sometimes does a wee on the floor and then comes to us whining afterwards[/I]! Other times he does a poo outside and we think he's done, then we'll come back in only to find he wees inside 2 minutes later (we do stay out with him for a while to make sure he's done all his business). Is there a way we can get him to start telling us he needs to go out or does this happen with time as his bladder gets stronger? We're getting to know the signs/times when he needs taking out, but this involves watching him carefully in his awake hours and is not always practical!
Looking forward to any advice. This is such a wonderful forum. We are first time dog owners and are fascinated and exited by all the things there are to know about caring for and educating our dog!
I am pleased that many of you have found this useful.
I have finished now and have tonight included Toys, The Pestering Pooch and Walking the Dog. I didn't spell check it though so if there are any mistakes could you PM me. Thanks
"My dog pulls like a train" is one of the most common complaints by dog owners - not surprising really! The lead is initially an unnatural restriction as far as the dog is concerned and dogs come pre-programmed with a pull reflex. That's why Huskies and other cart/sled pulling breeds are so good at their job - it's natural.
Puppies and leads are not a good combination. The young pup either sits on its bottom and refuses to move - trying to drag it along makes matters worse - or it pulls like a steam train even to the point of choking! In both cases the "pull against it" reflex is alive and well; and, of course, "pressure begets pressure". When the older dog pulls, we humans steadfastly brace ourselves and take the strain, so when the dog pulls, we hang on and allow ourselves to be towed up the street - usually yelling "heel!" in our efforts to get a response. The dog leads and we follow! As soon as possible we get to the park/the woods/the beach and let the dog off the lead where he runs ahead having a wonderful time pleasing himself and we dutifully follow.
So how can we make the change to enjoying a pleasant walk with our dog walking happily beside us going at the pace we set - on lead and off!?
Let's start with the confirmed puller. The dog usually wears a collar or choke/check chain and a chain lead with leather handle or a fabric lead that the owner winds round and round their wrist to get a better hold. The dog leans into the collar with his shoulders and hauls forward. When the dog leans into the choke chain the discomfort is so great that he pulls even harder in his efforts to get away from it. The so-called "correct use" of the choke chain involves jerking on it smartly - ouch - to teach the dog not to pull. Any "success" is as a result of pain and can very easily cause damage to the neck and spine (of both dog and owner!!).
There are various devices on the market aimed at "preventing" the dog from pulling. Everything from choke chains and pinch collars, which inflict pain no matter how "carefully" they are used, to the less aversive walking harnesses and halters.
The confirmed puller has effectively trained his owner to "take the strain" but the resulting vicious circle of mutual pulling can be easily broken with the short term addition of power steering combined with the correct reward training technique. This involves dedicated and consistent self-observation and awareness by the owner. Remember "pressure begets pressure" and it comes as a shock to owners how automatically they "take the strain".
Power steering is provided by using a halter called a Gentle Leader. There are other types on the market. Correctly fitted and used it can have a drastic effect on the boisterous "teenage" dog and can transform the expert puller. It provides gentle control of the head and neck as opposed to struggling against the full weight and strength of the dog's shoulders. More importantly, however, its design applies subtle pressure to the back of the neck and across the nose under the eyes. There are nerves on the back of the neck that encourage relaxation. When the puppies were picked up by the loose skin of the neck by their mother to move them to safety, the puppies automatically hung loose and relaxed. An open mouth applied gently across the nose just under the eyes subdued the pushy youngster. The Gentle Leader is not a muzzle. It is an interim measure in teaching your dog to walk happily at your side. In most cases the Gentle Leader is not required and just using the techniques described below does the trick.
The Technique
1. Fit the Gentle Leader, as per the instruction leaflet, so that the strap across the back of the neck is fitted just below the ears and allows two fingers under it. The nose loop should be loose enough to reach the fleshy (wet) part of the nose when pulled forward. Attach either a longish, broad fabric clip lead or a pony lead rope. The latter is extremely comfortable for the handler.
2. Set an imaginary line just in front of you beyond which the dog is not allowed to go. Ideally this allows for the dog to walk with his neck at your knee so when you glance down you can see his head. You will be looking at one another a lot!
3. If you would like your dog to walk on your left, take the lead across your body in your right hand. Don't wrap it round and round your hand or take the loop handle round your wrist. Your left hand hangs at your side OR lightly and loosely holds the slack of the lead (hand facing down, knuckles uppermost). Because you're so used to being pulled, it's preferable to keep your left hand off the lead until you need to use it. It feels very strange and awkward which, of course, draws your attention to it and helps to prevent you automatically taking the strain when the dog pulls forward.
4. It's best to start in the "privacy of your own garden" as you will be doing a lot of walking in reverse and overly concerned neighbours may well call for "the men in white coats" if you are seen walking backwards down the street!
5. Looking at your dog, quietly say his name, tap your thigh with your left hand and walk smartly forwards. If you get even a few steps at your side praise quietly, give a food reward with your left hand and keep focusing on your dog.
6. Your dog, however, may initially object very strongly to this strange contraption. It feels odd, but is in no way hurting him. Ignore completely (SAY NOTHING) any antics and efforts to remove the Gentle Leader. Don't look at the dog but keep walking. If he slams on the brakes, with a give-and-take (not jerking) on the lead and looking steadfastly forward in the direction you wish to go, KEEP GOING. Do not turn to look at the dog. Your direct gaze will block him from moving forward. You may have to contend with a "bucking bronco" and paws rubbing at the nose loop and getting caught up in the lead. SAY NOTHING - untangle the feet and keep the lead up, KEEP WALKING and LOOKING FORWARD. The fight will diminish and the dog will soon find it more comfortable and rewarding to walk at your side. As soon as the dog comes forward beside you, immediately relax your left hand, ensure a loose lead, praise quietly and give a food reward with your left hand.
7. When the dog goes out in front of you, SAY NOTHING, put your left hand on the lead, apply pressure (not jerking) step into reverse and walk backwards for 4 or 5 steps. Release the pressure, PAUSE and, if your dog pauses with you, walk smartly forwards, removing your left hand from the lead and tapping your thigh. This automatically puts the dog in the correct position whereupon you can quietly praise and food reward.
8. If he does not pause with you, step into reverse again and pause until he does, whereupon you walk smartly forwards, praise and food reward.
9. If your dog gets tangled up in front of you when you are correcting, keep him on your left with your left hand and arm.
In brief:
1. Dog goes out in front/pulls - SAY NOTHING
2. Put pressure on (left hand)
3. Step into reverse - 4 or 5 steps
4. Release pressure
5. Pause
6. Only if the dog pauses with you walk smartly forwards
7. PRAISE quietly.
If when you pause, your dog is still going forward, repeat steps 2, 3, 4 and 5.
Developing heelwork:
Vary your pace, SILENTLY correcting the heelwork consistently. Quietly PRAISE when the dog is walking in the correct position on a LOOSE LEAD. Focus only on your dog and your dog will begin to focus on you - what a team! When you are consistently able to walk for several yards with the dog beside you on a loose lead, start to quietly use the command word, "heel, good heel" or "close, good close" as the dog is heeling beside you. We are naming and rewarding the behaviour as it is happening.
Off Lead
Start with asking only for a few steps. Carry a titbit in your left hand. Focus hard on your dog and walk forward a few paces using the titbit to keep his attention. The bring the titbit behind the eye level and ask for a "sit". Reward with the titbit and immediately get another titbit to keep his attention. Heel forward again then release to play or "sit" again and release to play. The same sules apply - if the dog goes out in front, SAY NOTHING, step into reverse and as soon as the dog comes back towards you, tap your thigh, walk smartly forwards and praise quietly. Variety is the key with plenty of "sits" which help prevent these first few steps from falling apart. It's a good idea to teach your dog to sit every time you stop and this becomes automatic very quickly. You can stand and chat to a neighbour or a friend when out walking without your dog hauling you about all over the place - and it's good manners.
Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:13 pm Post subject: HI
Hi I just wanted to ask about whining...im guessing that is attention seeking behaviuor (in the morning when i get up, i grit my teeth and ignore her, and when she is left in the kitchen after we have played with her etc)...best way is just to ignore it right? the 5 minute rule?? It is the one thing that pushes my buttons..really bothers me, not sure why and i have just been ignoring it. Anything else i should be doing?
His excitement and energy is totally normal, he is obviously feeling very comfortable and safe in his new enviroment. Being hyper is totally normal for a puppy, but you do need to keep it in check. If he is getting too hyper, put him in another room for 5 minutes for a time out. If you play with him when he gets hyper, he is making you play with him. When you release him from a time out and he continues, pop him back to the other room. Don't use the crate for time outs as they see being removed from the pack as a very potent punishment and a crate should be a happy, safe place.
While Huey is very small, try to carry him up and down the stairs, although there are only 3 you have to consider how many times he goes up and down them. The smallest of stairs can cause them injuries. Also don't let him jump on and off furniture or in and out of the car. The reason for this is not only the damage that can happen to their joints, but they will when they are older think it is ok to do. When they are older you will not always want them taking over your sofa, nor will you want them jumping out of the car when you arrive somewhere for a walk.
There are certain times when puppies are more likely to need to go to toilet, after food, when they wake up and after playing. During the day, if he is fed, walked, played with etc, there is no reason why he can't be in his crate for sleeping. If he is going all night without messing his crate, there is no reason he would mess in it during the day. Puppies do need lots of sleep, so during the day, use the crate a bit more, when he wakes, pop him out to the loo as he will let you know he wants to go. We have all been home with our puppies and been busy doing housework etc and not noticed that they have been sleeping for a while and then they wake up and before we know it, they have been.
I am not always good at explaining things in written word, so let me know if I have confused you
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so if there are any mistakes could you PM me. Thanks 
