Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 7:54 pm Post subject: Chewing phase - I can't afford the re-building costs !
Hi everyone - please tell me that the chewing phase doesn't last forever. Matrix, an eight months old, black lab., is taking wall paper off the wall and eating corners. How long will this last and, if I have to get a crate because the damage gets out of hand, what advice is available. Thanks, in hope...
The chewing phase doesn't last forever, but it can be pretty intense whilst it does, as you are discovering. In most labs it lessens as they approach adulthood.
I would certainly advise use of a crate whilst you can't supervise your lab, both for your own sanity and for his safety. Charlie had one from the age of about 9 weeks until he was nearly 18 months old. It meant that when I had to go out I could be confident I would still have a house to come back to, and nothing would have been trashed.
Shadow still chews from time to time but he is much better now, he is almost 11 months old.
We have just bought a new crate for him, mainly for the GT in August but we have been using it in the house.
We shopped around and they are so expensive. We bought ours off ebay. The company were great, it arrived in 48hrs! Here is one that is on for sale now: 220129787573. If you paste the number into the search box on ebay, it will take you straight to it.
They always seem to have plenty for sale and they are very helpful. We bought the XL as Shadow is a big boy and this crate is plenty big enough.
A crate is definately the way to go Shamus, as Helen said it means both Matrix (love that name ) and the house will be safe while your out.
We recommend that the dog should be left no longer than 3 to 4 hours in a crate otherwise it becomes a prison, CJ still uses his and he`s 3 now, he went thru chewing wallpaper and taking the plaster off etc, trouble was he`d do it while I was here!!, I dread to think what the house would have been like if I`d been out and left him
Apart from the fact that he still loves his crate and sleeps in it etc, I havn`t bothered trying to decrate him
Crate Training Your Dog
Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a
new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules, such as
what he can and can’t chew and where he can and can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting
your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you
properly train your dog to use the crate, he will think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there
when needed.
Selecting A Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called “flight kennels”) or collapsible, metal pens. Collapsible fabric kennels are
designed for use when the owner is present and may not contain a dog for long periods while unsupervised.
Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be large
enough for him to stand up and turn around in.
The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s
important to keep two things in mind while crate training; one, the crate should always be associated with
something pleasant; and two, training should take place in a series of small steps – don’t go too fast.
Step 1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate
• Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a
soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of
voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened open so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
• To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and
finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay – don’t force him to
enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get
the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few
minutes or as long as several days.
Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate
• After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create
a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put
the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the
dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him,
place the dish a little further back in the crate.
• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s
eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door
closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins to
whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in
the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him
out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine and he’ll keep
doing it.
Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer Time Periods
• After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him
there for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a
command to enter, such as, “kennel up.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat
in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly
near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly
again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.
• Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you
leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the
crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated
when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days
or several weeks.
Step 4:
Part A – Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can
begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your
regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate (see our
handout, “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”). You’ll want to vary at what point in your “getting ready to
leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you
leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him
a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for
excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to
crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with
being left alone.
Part B – Crating Your Dog At Night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put
the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to
go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to
be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated
with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you
can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer. Puppies that are healthy can have their water
taken from them a few hours before bedtime to help decrease the frequency of potty trips they need to
make during the night.
Potential Problems
Too Much Time In The Crate
A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your
dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too
small a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also,
remember that puppies under 6 months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a
time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.
Whining
If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let
out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you followed the training procedures
outlined above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. Try to
ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on
the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use
the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside.
This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate,
the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Do not give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine
loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done
too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you
may need to start the crate training process over again.
Heya Toby is also eight months old and turned into a bit of a chewer. We do our best to keep things we don't want him to chew away from him. He loves chewing some of our toddler's toys - especially his books and puzzles and he's sent a few of them into the bin. Also he loves cushions but luckily we don't have many and they're not expensive. We've trained him not to go the sofas we don't want him on and he's totally crate trained so that helps. I can't really find any toys that Toby likes enough to distract him long term, but he loves the filled bones you can get from PAH and he chews them a lot even after he's eaten all the filling so they tend to last for weeks!
I've spoken to other people with labs and they've said that they generally stop chewing at around two years old so am just looking forward to then!
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum You cannot attach files in this forum You cannot download files in this forum
) and the house will be safe while your out.
