I found that if the best bit of the game was when you shared the toy, say playing tuggies, then once the toy was thrown then the dog couldn't wait until you have the toy again to have another game of tuggies. If the pup finds it more pleasurable to play with the toy on his own, then he isn't going to want to bring it back.
You can gradually wean them off the tuggies game once the retrieve is firmly ingrained. I've used this method to teach retrieve and search .
Posted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 10:05 am Post subject: retrieving
Some puppies deliver naturally to hand from the very beginning, many do not.
Start by throwing retrieves in an empty hallway or corridor, this limits your dog's ability to avoid you. Sit half way down the corridor and throw the object then start backing away as he returns.
If the pup persists in lying down and chewing the object, stop throwing retrieves until his vaccinations are complete then get him out in a big field or similar unfamiliar open space away from the general public.
Throw the dummy or ball a few feet and as soon as your pup goes to pick it up start walking away. Keep walking. He won't want to be left behind in the big outdoors and will come after you. Probably bringing the retrieve with him. This has to be done before the puppy develops independence so don't leave it too long. If he drops the dummy praise him for coming anyway and try again in a few days.
When the pup gets close, sit on the ground and let him climb all over you. Pet and praise him for holding the toy, don't take it away immediately. When you do take it, throw it again a few feet and repeat the sequence. Don't throw more than three or four in a row, don't do this more than once a day, don't do it every day ( three or four days a week) The object is to make retrieving a very special treat that the puppy comes to desire very strongly.
If you want to know more about retrieveing and developing the retrieve post up
If you are serious about retrieving then playing tuggy is a bad idea. It may spoil the naturally soft mouth of your dog.
Sorry about all the 'don'ts' It is very easy to spoil a retriever and very difficult to recover the natural delivery bred into your dog once lost.
Number one rule:- Don't practise the fault! Always remember this, after three times of doing something it becomes a learned procedure, so if it is not what you want then you then have the task of "Unlearning" the procedure.
Particularly with a puppy of that age try to do everything in such a way that the puppy cannot get it wrong. Not easy I know, but with a little lateral thinking it can be done. A good video for you is Sam and Judi Seal's (Trioaks Flatcoats) training video. I've seen it around somewhere recently but can’t think where? Could be Brenda Abbett on the rehoming? (Although she has resigned as fund raiser now)
My own way is to kneel on the floor and toss the article into the corner of the room, only a yard or so. The puppy is then always near enough to me that I have full control. Some puppies are easy. Anna was retrieving to hand in less than a week whereas Amy was at least a month behind. If you find that you are getting no where don't be afraid to shelve that aspect of training for a little while. As I said at the start, don’t let the wrong thing become a learned procedure. There are plenty of other things you can be getting on with. Recalls for one. Don't forget that the recall is all part of the retrieve!
Posted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:17 pm Post subject: Re: retrieving
Molly99 wrote:
If you are serious about retrieving then playing tuggy is a bad idea. It may spoil the naturally soft mouth of your dog.
I must admit I know nothing about encouraging a soft mouth . I've just used the tuggies method to teach pet dogs, from Jack Rascals and Toy Poodles to a Lurcher and now my Lab, to retrieve. I suppose I'm lucky in that the only dog I've had with a hard mouth has been a Terrier cross, but then terriers aren't known to have soft mouths anyway .
Young puppies naturally want to be with you, so use that trait in your training. Don't worry too much about how he comes, just that he does. Strict obedience recalls can come later if you want them. At this stage, all good things should come from humans so he will want to come to you anyway. If he is too busy sniffing the grass then you have two choices, either don't call him in the first place, or make yourself so attractive and exciting that he comes anyway. The secret is to not fail.
You can use this same trait to start teaching heelwork. When he is out in the garden and you go outside, the chances are he will come running up to you. Tap your leg with your hand to encourage him into the right place and take two or three paces forward with a gentle "Heel" command him whilst encouraging him to walk with you. Stop after the two or three paces and immediately praise him. All the time you are endeavouring to show him that it's fun to be with you. You can also teach sits. you can do this at feeding times by moving his food bowl back over his head so as he tries to follow it with his eyes his behind automatically drops into the sit.
Train all these little things totally separately, even at different times of the day, so each little session is so short that it cannot even be looked upon as a training session, more a one to one play. Only start to add the things together when each is learned. Start extending the sit into a sit stay. Terminate the recall with a sit. Put a sit in at the end of the two or three paces of heelwork.
Do you see how it is all building up without ever working at it?
Ruby did this instinctively I never trained her to do it she doesnt retrieve to the hand though she drops at my feet but thats fine by me as I dont plan to work her adn ballsdont fly off if dropped at your feet
What helped her along though was taking 2 ballls out she droped one in preparation for chasing the other one
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. I've just used the tuggies method to teach pet dogs, from Jack Rascals and Toy Poodles to a Lurcher and now my Lab, to retrieve. I suppose I'm lucky in that the only dog I've had with a hard mouth has been a Terrier cross, but then terriers aren't known to have soft mouths anyway 
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